We started noticing a quirk with our fit when new samples arrived, and as wear gathered on the first sample we realised that it wasn't a characteristic we wanted to go into production. The hem was curving, something we originally liked, but it was very quickly becoming a flare. Now, flares and bootcuts certainly have their place - but not on the 0 Jean.
We tried tapering the pattern to reduce the hem - but the stubborn curve kept fighting back, desperate to hitch a ride onto our legs. There was really only one person who could help us: Mohsin Sajid, denim genius.
When we first started on this journey, Katy explained how the fit, above all else, was probably the most important piece of the puzzle. That's why we searched high and low for a fit that we'd want to recreate, before finding the 1940's jean that has since become the 0 Jean block.
She also explained that pattern cutting is a skill people spend years honing. I thought it isounded simple; I'm a visual person with a good brain for spacial awareness - how hard could it be??
I couldn't be more wrong.
Mohsin explained, in the most simple of terms, that "You need to make 3D, into 2D pieces". It's actually quite a feat when you're dealing with layers of fabric with pockets in odd placements, leg twist, and around 70 years of age.
However, we enlisted the right person. Mohsin is so skilled that he cuts patterns with all manner of incredible contours for his own line Endrime. He methodically spent two evenings with us making up our new pattern from scratch.
As you can see above - it's not a matter of 'tracing the outlines' as I thought. You can see the seam actually sits flat on top, so you need to do some mental gymnastics to flatten that 3D shape into one you can cut out.
The 0 Jean fit is now ever so slightly tapered and is far closer to the original than the samples we've had so far with a felled inseam. In fact - if you look at it as a flat shape you can barely see the taper at all.
Mohsin then toiled the pattern in selvedge denim so we could check the fit - and it was spot on. It would have brought a tear to our eyes if they weren't already glassy from watching him work well into the early morning on the pattern.
The new measurements up on the shop are now almost final. Cookson and Clegg will sew up a production sample for us but now the only changes will be due to tolerance during production - and they will be minimal as the pattern accounts for that.
When production starts, all those that have pre ordered will be emailed for final size confirmation.